The arena was flooded with sun and the clamor of the crowd rose from the tiers like an offering. Where were we? In Seville? In Puerto Santa Maria? Definitely somewhere in Andalusia, where the stature and pride of men are compelling.
On this particular Sunday in the month of May, the combat to be delivered did not have the aim of putting a bull to death. The intention was a sensuous ritual act: to confront animal-like notes with the influential power of a flower, one of the most odorant in the vegetal world, the tuberose. Wood, musk and costus, in daring, unreasonably abundant proportions, would once and for all bite the dust in this arena dedicated solely to the glory of men. In this openly sexual confrontation - me the woman, you the man -, one of the most blasphemous of men’s perfumery, the purity of the tuberose is falsely innocent so that in appearance only, these macho reputed notes seem to be the only ones victorious. But smelling it tells a completely different story... the nose instinctively knows who the victor is.
Do you know this adorable mademoiselle? She’s a girly-girl, clutching a bouquet of orange blossom and lily-of-the-valley, all sweetness and light and delicate grace. Like a ballerina, she pirouettes across the floor and into your heart. But this young dancer knows some jazzy moves. That pink-and-white charm conceals shades of gray. And when the innocence of fresh white flowers gives way to a hint of seductive patchouli, you know there’s more to her. Someday, her sparkle will turn into fire, and her gentle warmth will become passion. Oh, the sweet mystery of this precious child/woman! But all will be revealed when he asks her, “Do you..?” And she replies, “Yes, I do”.
« Take me as I am » seems to say this fake Mr Everybody. An anti-hero never lies about who he is, hence the seeming simplicity of this hedonistic and sun-drenched creation, entirely centered on lavender flower. This hero of everyday life fights very ordinary battles at work, when driving, at home without every taking anything too seriously. His innate modesty is extremely appealing and he knows it. He cultivates his imperfections with wit and with natural unconventional elegance. With his tousled hair and look, this somewhat unexpected superman catches the eye and still cannot believe it - that’s why we adore him.
Lavender, musk, cedarwood
Fruity, Woody, Powdery
She’s the girl you see at parties, the one who stands out in a crowd and leaves behind the memory of a smile and a scent. Well-bred, like the iris flower, she is also an urban fairy, dancing on a table in a leather jacket. She can celebrate with champagne or a cherry lollipop, and maybe both. She is pure exuberance and wherever she is, it’s a party...
For All the Madonnas of this world. The improbable alliance of two antagonistic smells, sacred incense and mischievous bubble gum. «Encens et Bubblegum» is a candy-like perfume that flirts with mystical inspiration. As provocative as a star who chews a bubble gum in a church, who plays with crucifixes and yet bows low before the altar. When transgression is tinted with erotic guilt, the impish sensuality of this childlike woman takes the upper hand. Men waste away in despair but she doesn’t care. She plays cat and mouse with men, will eat them up and move on.
Peach, raspberry, lily of the valley, orange blossom, vanilla, incense, musk
MALAISE OF THE 1970s
Citrus, Spicy, Sweet
Malaise gives off the metallic smell of the Iron Lady tearing down British society - “There’s no such thing as society” - to sell off the rabble and rubble to the City. Malaise gives off the metallic smell of guitar strings being tortured in London squats, of safety pins stuck in cheeks, of razor blades slicing through the skin of pallid chests.
Malaise gives off the metallic smell of the spaceships that will carry us Anywhere out of this world, as Baudelaire once said. “A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away” with Luke Skywalker and Princess Leia. Aboard the musical mothership of Close Encounters, led by François Truffaut, whose generous gaze will soon go out. In the bowels of the Nostromo freighter where a vitriol-blooded Alien, thrust into the body of space proles like a monstrous reverse-pregnancy, bursts out in a gut-splattered howl.
Malaise gives off the metallic smell of blood, yes, but also the burn of pepper spray in our noses... Ah... ah... ah... nar... CHY! And a strange sweet softness we sink into, like the ground flesh of an overripe fruit in our fist. And the pungency of the leather armor we slip on to scare off the hippies.
“No More Heroes”, the Stranglers growl, but Luke and Leia give us the Force. We hold out our hand to Spielberg’s mild-mannered aliens. We butcher the bug that’s eating us up from inside with Ripley, the kick-ass androgyne.
Citrus, black pepper, amber, prune JE, electric aldehydes, heliotrope, patchouli, orcanox, leather
Earthy, Woody, Sweet
With “NOMBRIL IMMENSE”, the accent is put on the exceptional quality of the patchouli used. Exotic and precious, this fragrant wood from India literally captivates. «Nombril Immense» is an invitation to introspection. Like an initiatory voyage in Kathmandu, to discover new emotions and an open-mindedness to unprecedented spirituality. Patchouli is a sacred wood in Hindu temples ; it inspires meditation and leads the way to shedding one’s mortal coil to access timelessness. “Nombril Immense” is an authentic piece of nirvana and has the smell of bliss.
Patchouli, balm of Peru, vetiver, black pepper absolute, opoponax, bergamot, seed of carrot, kernels of ambrette absolute
S as in blood, sweat, semen, saliva.
True olfactory coitus, "Magnificent Secretions" takes us to the summit of jouissance, this ever-new moment when desire triumphs over reason. The masculine tension, all in acute notes, releases its adrenaline discharge in a cascade of aldehydes. The freshness effect is striking. Then the perfume reveals its metallic side, precise, sharp as an unfulfilled desire. We are on the edge of the razor ... The sweaty skins have the flavor of musk and sandalwood. The marine effect, slightly salty, excites the taste buds and puts the water in the mouth. Languages and sexes are found, pleasure explodes, and everything changes. Mechanics of the fluids, confusion of the kinds. This subversive, disturbing scent provokes full adhesion or rejection. The love games are rarely satisfied half measures ... Between Don Juan and the woman offered, it is the deposit of weapons, but who bows before whom?
It is claimed, I would not assure it, but some scholars persuade us that the chestnut blossom has the same positive odor as that prolific seed which it pleased nature to place in the kidneys of man for the reproduction of his similar. A young lady of about fifteen, who had never left her father's house, was walking one day with her mother and a pretty abbe in a chestnut-tree alley whose exhalation of flowers perfumed the air in the suspicious direction. that we have just taken the liberty of enunciating
- Oh my God, mother, the singular smell, said the young person to his mother, not noticing where she came from ... but feel, mom ... it's an odor that I know.
"Hold your tongue, miss, do not say such things, I beg you.
"Why, then, mamma, I do not see any harm in telling you that this odor is not foreign to me, and it certainly is not.
- But, miss ...
"But, mamma, I know her, I tell you; Monsieur l'Abbe, tell me, I beg you, what harm I do to assure Mother that I know that odor.
"Mademoiselle," said the abbe, pinching his crop and fluttering the sound of his voice, "it is quite certain that evil itself is a small thing; but it is that we are here under chestnut trees, and that we naturalists, we admit in botany that the chestnut flower ...
She has all the assets of platinum blond seduction. A full-fledged décolleté, shapely hips and a sensuous catlike walk. A perfectly curvaceous body in a sequined lamé dress, a Technicolor version of the American dream! Accords of ambergray, fur and white pepper evoke an excess of luxury, the flashiness of casinos, women in sheath dresses and Marilyn naked under a mink coat. Is she a real blonde?
To know the answer one will have to wait for nudity… Flushes of aldehydic notes fill the bedroom air, a tribute to the perfume the star wore at night, red-hot kisses enhanced by a bubbling thirst-quenching pink champagne note that leaves one panting. One feels like biting into this lovely sugared almond. Everything a brunette ever dreamed of!
Aldehydes, liqueur brandy of Champagne, Rose, Peach of Grapevine, White Pepper, Myrrh, Patchouli, Suede
SHE WAS AN ANOMALY
Ever since its inception, Etat Libre d’Orange has been an oddity, a deviation from the norm, an eccentric in the world of perfumery.
We don’t fit the patterns, we don’t follow the traditions.
Etat Libre d’Orange is a study in contradictions; light and dark, decadent and nice, romantic and cynical, honest and ironic. No one knows what to expect from us. Sometimes we don’t know what to expect from ourselves.
Etat Libre d’Orange is an anomaly. We are different, our fragrances are different, their stories are different. We value this distinction, we celebrate it. And now we honor our difference with a perfume.
This is who we are.
"This perfume is the result of something unexpected. I played with Carto*, Givaudan’s AI-powered tool for suggesting formulas. I gave it beloved and familiar notes. Carto suggested an overdose of two ingredients. I took care of the rest."
– Daniela Andrier (Perfumer)
* As part of its 2020 digital innovation strategy, Givaudan Fragrances is thrilled to announce the launch of « Carto », our latest intuitive and interactive system that reinvents the way perfumers create. Carto is an AI-powered tool that brings science and technology to the service of the perfumers. It is designed to intelligently use our unique ingredients « Odour Value Map » to maximize the olfactive performance in the final formula.